An important creative genre within the culture of Tibetan Buddhism, Regong art originated in the 15th Century around the Longwu River basin, in what is today Tongren County, a part of Qinghai Province's Huangnan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Over the centuries Tongren County has cultivated numerous folk artists engaged in Buddhist painting and sculpture, hence its reputation as "The Home of Tibetan Painters." Tongren in the Tibetan language is referred to as "Regong," so local art forms are together called "Regong art." In part because this place is the home of Regong art, each year Huangnan prefecture attracts a large number of visitors from both home and abroad. It has become the third hottest tourist destination in Qinghai Province, only after the Qinghai Lake and the Kumbum Monastery.

Lama Gyobaja, a thangka painter, makes his home in the residential quarters for lamas behind the Great Hall of the Upper Wutun Monastery. The Upper and Lower Wutun Monasteries are well known in Tongren County for a splendid tradition of Regong art. Famous across the county, Gyobaja was described by Xin Jianping, director of the Publicity Department of Huangnan prefecture, as being both an "outstanding artist" and a "successful businessman."
Although busy in his office work, Xin's enthusiasm for Huangnan and Regong art has only grown. Accordingly, this passion became a driving force in his work. He has served as the director of the Publicity Department for 13 years, and such an experience made it possible for him to become intimately acquainted with the ways of the prefecture, while also establishing valued friendships with local artists like Gyobaja. His instruction and guidance made it possible for this reporter to develop a better understanding of local artists, as well as Regong art and the beauty of Huangnan.

Xin spoke quickly and precisely. As he heard that I was a reporter from China Pictorial, he immediately worked out a reporting schedule, in accordance with which I first arrived at Gyobaja's home. Gyobaja and his two brothers waited at home for my arrival, as they had been alerted via telephone.

His home is a traditional courtyard of Tibetan style, with a corridor in front of the residences. As we entered, Gyobaja and his brothers were working on paintings under the corridor. They put down their brushes to welcome us. I had thought that such an eminent painter like Gyobaja would be older. However, the seemingly shy young lama before me seemed only about 30 years in age.
Gyobaja had transformed a small room into his exhibition area, in which were his works and those of his brothers. All paintings featured gorgeous colors with dazzling beauty, as well as surprisingly exquisite brushwork. According to Gyobaja, sometimes a brush made of only a single hair is required to draw such very fine lines. To avoid mistakes, they often hold their breath to complete a stroke. A plate of mineral stones in the room attracted my attention. Gyobaja said that these are used to make pigments. Then he took out several leather bags, from which he poured out the pigment powder. He also showed us a box containing brushes of varying sizes.

Also exhibited in the room were some exquisite Buddhist sculptures out of the hands of Gyobaja. I had thought craftworks created by folk artists like Gyobaja might be rigid and lifeless, but to my surprise, his productions represented delicate expression of feelings. "How can they realize such superb craftsmanship" "I asked Director Xin. "Because they follow the tradition,¡± he replied. "Over ages local painters hand down their techniques from generation to generation. In addition, they are believers in Buddhism and thus have deep insight into the meaning of Buddhist tales. This helps integrate their feelings and understanding into their work. For instance, as a lama Gyobaja has committed himself to the study of Buddhism many years. His works are not merely copied from his predecessors, but represent his own understanding of Buddhism. This is why he can create so many lifelike paintings.¡± While listening to his explanation, I cast my eyes on a lifelike portrait of Tara (goddess in Tibetan Buddhism). With a slight smile and enchanting shape, she looked as if she may say something.

Gyobaja has a thick notebook in which he records the addresses and telephone numbers of his customers in varying languages, such as Mandarin, English and French. The notebook indicated his role as a broker. With the spread of Regong art all over the world, many came to Tongren County for pilgrimage from other places of China and even foreign countries. Numerous orders for thangka paintings arrive from every corner of the globe. He has organized other local painters into a team to satisfy orders based on samples. The works are not produced on a production line; rather each painting is created by a single artist.

"How to ensure paintings exactly conform to their samples" Is there any standard blueprint for different painters" I asked.

"No," Gyobaja relied. "We draw paintings only from our memories.¡± He then picked up a charcoal pencil and began to sketch on a taught canvas. As his pencil moved, a portrait of Buddha quickly appeared.

There are households engaged in Regong art in every village across Tongren County. Some of them specialize in thangka paintings, some barbola, and some clay sculpture. In the county their works are found in many temples, small and large. Today the county's largest and most famous Longwu Monastery houses colored paintings, thangka paintings and sculptures created by generations of local artists. Almost every local monastery serves as the exhibition hall for Regong artworks. Led by Director Xin, I traveled to all of these monasteries.

In the past I visited monasteries in areas inhabited by Tibetan people, and their unique charm impressed me. However, I had never gained a deeper insight into the creation and meaning of temple arts before my journey to Huangnan.

Viewed from the mountaintop, Tongren County is hidden in a long, narrow valley, and golden roofs of local monasteries are shinning in the sunlight. The beautiful and clean county has cultivated the brilliant Regong art and countless outstanding artists, to which much of the county's charm is attributed.

China Pictorial
Wang Lei