Sagadawa Festival Day, Lhasa

Today is the first time I have had the strength and energy to go strolling about. And a lucky coincidence for me, a strong festival atmosphere pervades the streets today. For it is Sagadawa Festival Day, the day that marks both the birthday of Sakyamuni and the day he died and attained nirvana.

May 20th. 2005, Friday

Today is my fourth day in Lhasa, a dream destination of many Chinese. I think I am lucky ¨C not only because I had the opportunity to come here, but also because I have survived altitude sickness.

Though I have been here for a few days, today is the first time I have had the strength and energy to go strolling about. And a lucky coincidence for me, a strong festival atmosphere pervades the streets today. For it is Sagadawa Festival Day, the day that marks both the birthday of Sakyamuni and the day he died and attained nirvana.

On the streets, I see hundreds of thousands of people spinning prayer wheels while chanting Buddhist scripts. And many Tibetans are walking the traditional pilgrimage route that connects many of Lhasa's sacred sites, such as the Potola Palace and Jokhang.

It's not only a festival atmosphere that pervades the city, but also a thick cloud of smoke. Incense is lit everywhere. And I learn something new: a Tibetan staple food ¨C roasted barley or "tsampa" ¨C is also burned as an offering to Buddha.

Behind the Potala Palace is Dragon King Lake. Many Tibetans paddle boats in the lake to pray for abundant rain and a good harvest. During the festival, people refrain from killing animals. I see some people releasing ducks they bought at market into the lake.

Heading back toward my room, I pass by the Potala Palace. Lots of people are circling and kowtowing the palace every three steps. It's an amazing sight. I heard that some pious individuals have even been kowtowing every three steps since they left home. Wow!


Lake Basumco

Our first excitement came when we arrived at the entrance to Milha Mountain, which is over 5000 meters above sea level. It is located at the boundary of Lhasa and Nyingchi prefecture. It was freezing cold, but the snow-capped mountains cast a spell on me at pushed me outside the car to take a picture.


May 26th. 2005, Thursday

Finally, after a six day stay in Lhasa, we left for Gongbogyamda in Nyingchi prefecture, east of the city.

Gongbogyamda is about five hours drive from Lhasa. Luckily, the road to our destination was quite smooth and well constructed. This national highway extends as far as Sichuan Province in the east.

Our first excitement came when we arrived at the entrance to Milha Mountain, which is over 5000 meters above sea level. It is located at the boundary of Lhasa and Nyingchi prefecture. It was freezing cold, but the snow-capped mountains cast a spell on me at pushed me outside the car to take a picture.

I was again thrilled when we saw the first gorge of Niyang River, which flows from west to east through Nyingchi prefecture. The river generates surging torrents while passing through. To the west of the mainstay, there are seven peaks in the shape that resemble human forms. The biggest stone image at center is said to be the Sakyamuni Buddha, which is surrounded by his six followers. They are listening to his sermon.

The grand finale came when we arrived at Basumco, the biggest freshwater lake in eastern Tibet. It is located to the northeast of Gongbo-gyamda County and is about 40 kilometers away from the main road of the No. 318 National highway. The lake is shaped like a crescent. It's also located at an elevation of over 3400 meters, with an average depth of more than 60 meters.

In the middle of the lake, there is an island with a monastery built in the last years of Tang Dynasty. The monastery belongs to the Ningmapa sect, which has a history of more than 600 years. The construction of the monastery was lead by the famous Ningmapa monk Sangye Lingpa. Indian Guru Padmasambhava is worshiped at the monastery.

Strolling along the small island clockwise, I also saw "the combined peach and Cypress tree" and its reproduction, which is used as an altar.


Kading Heavenly Buddha Waterfall

After a ten minute walk from the entrance, we arrived at the terrace and got a very close look at the waterfall. It is about 200 meters long and our guide told us that there is a Buddha-like image on the rocks of the mountain, where the waterfall flows down.


May 27th. 2005, Friday

Today we are heading for the capital city of Nyingchi prefecture, a town called Bayi. 27 kilometers away from Bayi, there is a waterfall called Kading Heavenly Buddha waterfall.

We are all very excited about seeing the waterfall, and hope that we don¡¯t have any problems finding it!

Before we could see the waterfall, we heard the loud sound of water splashing on rocks, which made us more eager to see its real face. As we approached, I could feel the temperature drop sharply.

After a ten minute walk from the entrance, we arrived at the terrace and got a very close look at the waterfall. It is about 200 meters long and our guide told us that there is a Buddha-like image on the rocks of the mountain, where the waterfall flows down.


"Switzerland of Tibet"

Arriving, I find out there are at least 10 hectares of cypress trees in the park, with an average height of 44 meters. The tallest cypress in the park is about 50 meters high, and is at least 2600 years old. This tree is said to be the "life tree" of Shinrab Miba, founder of the Ben sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

May 28th. 2005, Saturday

Today I visit Nyingchi County, whose beautiful forests have earned it the nickname "Switzerland of Tibet".

Using the town of Bayi as a base for my travels in Nyingchi, I first go to the village of Bajie, about 8 kilometers outside of town. My destination is a park filled with ancient cypress trees. Arriving, I find out there are at least 10 hectares of cypress trees in the park, with an average height of 44 meters. The tallest cypress in the park is about 50 meters high, and is at least 2600 years old. This tree is said to be the "life tree" of Shinrab Miba, founder of the Ben sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

Leaving Bajie village on an increasingly bumpy road, I continue on to Bangna village, some 30 kilometers southeast of Bayi town. I'm heading to see the "Mulberry King", an ancient and gigantic mulberry tree (as far as mulberry trees go).

But before I reach the "King", I see a big road sign that says, "The Biggest Ancient Temple in Nyingchi County: Daze Temple". I decide to take a quick detour to investigate. I grow excited at first sight. The temple is the second largest temple of the Ben sect. I talk with the oldest Lama at the temple. He is now about 70 years old and is originally from Ganzi, in Sichuan province. I walk around the temple and see many Buddhist scriptures.

I say goodbye to the Lama and continue on the road to the Mulberry King. Soon I begin to feel tired and thirsty. And it is just at this time that I see the Benri Holy Spring, located at the foot of the Benri Holy Mountain. I jump out of the car and run to drink from the holy spring, whose water is said to beneficial to the eyes.

After this refreshment, I regain strength, and continue on the road to Bangna village and the Mulberry King. Arriving in the village, I see the tree: It¡¯s a 7.4-meter-tall mulberry tree, estimated to be about 1600 years old. Local Tibetans regard the tree as a symbol of good luck and have respected and protected it for a long time.


Mount Segila and Namjagabrwa Peak

My Tibetan driver has taken me to Lulang Forest, a 100,000-hectare sea of trees to the east of Mount Segila, which according to him offers the best view of Namjagabrwa Peak...

May 29. 2005, Sunday

How can I describe my mood right now? Excited? No. Far more than that, I can't believe my eyes. I feel as if I'm dreaming. I'm looking at Namjagabrwa Peak, the highest point on Mount Segila.

With an elevation of 7782 meters, Mount Segila is the 15th tallest mountain in the world. The Brahmaputra River circles the mountain, and cuts into its base, creating world-famous gorges, such as the Brahmaputra Gorge. Shrouded by both clouds and the mist generated by crashing water in the gorges, Mount Segila is also known as the "Shy Mountain".

My Tibetan driver has taken me to Lulang Forest, a 100,000-hectare sea of trees to the east of Mount Segila, which according to him offers the best view of Namjagabrwa Peak. Both standing there in awe of nature, he tells me that winter is the best time to view the 749-million-year-old, metamorphic mountain. He then tells me more about Mount Segila.

He says Mount Segila is the most complete example in the world of ecosystem changes due to elevation. He says rainforests, deserts, and glaciers can all be found on the mountain. He says on the western slope of the mountain there is a vast field of rhododendra, which bloom every May and June, turning Mount Segila into a "flower mountain". My driver tells me on October 30, thirteen years ago, the Sino-Japan Friendship Mountaineering Team made a successful ascent of Mount Segila. It was the last virgin peak above 7700 meters in the world.

Tibettour.com.cn/en/ CRIENGLISH.com
By Zhou Yun