Editor's Note: Of the many destinations available to those who wish to tour China by car, the Western Sichuan Plateau is a standout route. Fantastic scenery and the unique cultures of the native populace are but two reasons why many traveling via Chengdu and Chongqing choose to auto-tour the plateau.

As a native of Chongqing, most of my fall vacations were enjoyed on the Western Sichuan Plateau, an amazing and beautiful land. Because of its incredible landscapes, as a child the plateau became for me a fairyland. This impression is still imprinted to my soul.

For this writing I would again visit this landed dreamscape.

Dujiangyan--Danba

We began our voyage at daybreak, driving a jeep via Chengdu to Dujiangyan, a city about 380 kilometers away from Chongqing. There we joined with other travelers, now comprising a team of nine members in three cars.

Piloting the jeep, my husband led our team to the Minjiang River valley, the only passage to the western Sichuan Plateau. We drove westwards along a highroad in the valley then began to climb. As our altitude increased, the scenery became more beautiful; more dramatic in scope.

On past trips to Western Sichuan big and small inconveniences had always occurred, but never so early as during this particular venture. Around 3 pm, as we climbed the mountain road we rose into heavy mist and our depth of vision dropped. Then, at about 3,000 meters, snow began to appear along roadside. The further we progressed the more difficult conditions became.

Fortunately, all of our team members were experienced at traveling in western Sichuan, and we proceeded safely. As we neared the narrow pass through the Balang Mountain, however - when victory was just ahead - we fell into a traffic jam.

On a plateau more than 4,000 meters above sea level, one would suffer from a slight altitude sickness even with no movement. And here we sat - a fierce wind and a hard snow pounding the car windows. The highroad around the mountain was a black thread of vehicles. As we sat that long while in this cold and precarious position, I could not help but consider a vacation of warm sunshine and sandy beaches.

But after an hour, this too did pass and we were on our way. At about 6 pm, the team arrived in Xiaojin County. We declined temptation and did not stop to marvel at the heart-stopping sunset. Instead we forged ahead to Danba County.

Though we thought our first day would be an easy trip; we thought wrong. But that's the charm of western Sichuan - you never know what may happen.

Danba--Garze


... In searching one's English vocabulary for that single word to best describe the sunshine on the plateau, one might settle on "provocative."

Out of bed early the next morning we surveyed our accommodations: the Danba International Youth Hostel. There were traveling teams similar to ours, and some not so similar. Some were self-drivers heading to Daocheng County; some were hikers trekking to Dangling. Some roamed nearby. But it was the intent of all to obtain the plateau and all were enthusiastic.

Our team was off to Garze, 330 kilometers distant. We had visited the closer Dawu County last year, so this year our destination would be far beyond. We slowed pace neither at the Donghe River Gorge, nor the Yak Valley Natural Bonsai Area. At about 2 pm, we arrived in Dawu. After deliberation we elected to break for lunch. That noon-day repast would be of wild mushrooms and snow-mountain fish.

At the lunch table, my husband, this trip serving as team leader, announced that in view of the unknown conditions of the road ahead, and so that we would safely make Garze before nightfall, no member would separate from the team to take photos or otherwise loiter.

As predicted, there were few vehicles on the road from Dawu to Garze. The afternoon sun hung high beneath an azure sky, which served as backdrop for crystalline snowcapped mountains, fertile green grasslands, eye-catching Tibetan villages and tall trees dropping the myriad-hued leaves of the season. It was if we drove through a painting depicting a perfect autumn on the plateau.

Traveling dreamlike in our painting, our attention drawn to a roadside lamasery, we nearly had a rude awakening in Zhaggo County, almost missing our road. From that point the 170-kilometer trip down the road linking Dawu to Garze proved a breeze - due partly to a stop at the halfway point. However, it was almost 7 pm by the time we reached Luoguoliangzi, at more than 4,000 meters above sea level. And we were still 50 kilometers away from the county seat of Garze.

In order to reach our destination before sunset, our team leader decided that we would not rest until arriving at Garze. It was nearly dark when we reached the preceding mountaintop. The vast land at the foot of the mountain was bathed in dusk sunglows. All the mountain peaks - high, low, near and far - all were cast in a golden sheen.

Tranquil and graceful, the fertile grasslands were necklaced by a collection of delicate lakes. Not far away from our high perch a dollop of purple cloud floated... We were transformed as a part if this elegant, mysterious atmosphere - this fairyland.

Persuaded by this dreamlike state, we stopped the jeep to record with camera the changing colors and light. We did not realize we were the only two remaining is this bit of 4,000-meter high wilderness until the sun withdrew its last glow and fierce wind swept snow to our faces. Taking stock, we moved on and at 9 pm we entered the county seat of Garze.

Garze--Dege

In the Tibetan language, Garze means pure whiteness and beauty. About 3,390 meters above sea level and cradled within snow-laced mountains, the county of Garze, the trading and traffic hub of Kangbei, was bustling with prosperity.

After slowing for a bit we chose to take the 100-kilometer highroad from Garze to the Xinluhai Lake. This road, perhaps the best we traveled in western Sichuan, was flat and wide - like a modern expressway framed by beautiful scenery. Climbing out of Garze, the roadside landscapes became even more magnificent. Clear sky, white clouds, rolling snowcapped mountains, serene pastures - These natural wonders flowed like artful watercolors to please our eyes and purify our city souls.

In Dege County, at the foot of the Sparrow Mountain, the pure Xinluhai Lake welcomed us with a view of its crystal-clear water and pristine ecosystem. Pausing to recline on the grassland some 4,000 meters above sea level, I enjoyed a pleasant sunbath and took in the unmatched scenery: the lake, snowcapped mountains and robust forests.

Taken away by this awesome display of natural majesty, I recalled an untitled poem:
"With you in my embrace, would I drive on the boundless grassland one day? The white tent and red cottage in the distance are our eternal home, where we spend romantic nights in the lights of oil lamp. This beautiful place is our unforgettable home."

Background information:

Dujiangyan: Located on the western Chengdu Plain in Sichuan Province, the city of Dujiangyan got its name for the Dujiangyuan Irrigation System that was designed and built by Li Bing, the first specialist in water conservancy throughout Chinese history (with the help of his son) in the 3rd Century. As the oldest and only one existing water conservancy project with water intake with no dams in the world, the irrigation system remains today a benefit to local people.

Danba, Dawu, Garze, and Dege: These counties are all under the jurisdiction of the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Situated on the southeast edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in western Sichuan, the autonomous prefecture, with Kangding as its capital, governs 18 counties. Nearly 80 percent of its population is Tibetans. It boasts vast plateaus, rolling mountains, and deep valleys. The Jinsha and Dadu rivers run through the autonomous prefecture. For the huge fall of its rivers, it is rich in hydraulic resources. Abundant in hot springs, it is also rich in terrestrial heat resources. In addition, it abounds in wild animals and plants, including such rare species as the giant panda, the panda, the golden monkey, and the white-lipped deer. There are also countless monasteries in the beautiful autonomous prefecture. The Horse-Racing Mountain and the Muge Lake are famed both at home and abroad.

The Xinluhai Lake: At the foot of the Sparrow Mountain in Dege County, the lake beside the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is 98 kilometers away from the county seat of Garze. About 4,040 meters above sea level, it is a well-known ice-eroded lake with an average depth of 10 meters and a maximum depth of 15 meters in the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Its water comes from melted glaciers and snows on the Sparrow Mountain and the stream originating from the lake sources to the Cuoqu River.

Source: China Pictorial
Text by Ye Ning Photographs by Quan Yuxi, Zhang Li, and Zhang Xiangui