Getting There

Compared to the trek out to Tibet's other renowned holy mountain, Kailash, getting to Amnye Machen is straightforward. The bus from Xining passes Lajia Si, a charming Geluk monastery on the upper reaches of the Yellow River, at daybreak, and arrives at Maqin mid-morning. The bus station at Tuanjie Lu 137 (tel. 0975/838-2715), open from 7am to 5:30pm, has services to Xining (14 hr.; ¥68/$8.50 seat or ¥93/$12 sleeper) at 8am (seat) and 4pm (sleeper). To continue south, you will need to arrange permits in Xining. There are buses for Dari (4 hr.; ¥25/$3) at 7:30am; and on odd-numbered dates for Banma (10 hr.; ¥46/$5.70) and thence to Aba (1 1/2 days; ¥80/$10) in Sichuan, departing at 8am. Hiring a Beijing Jeep through CITS, you can connect directly with Maduo (¥1,000/$125), Aba (¥1,500/$187), and Yushu (¥2,000/$250). Facing out from the bus station, you are on Tuanjie Lu. As major streets go, that's it. The direction to your left is roughly north.

Tours & Guides

CITS (tel. 0975/838-3441; fax 0975/838-3431;) is in the lobby of Xue Shan Binguan, and goes by the name Amdo & Kham International Travel Service (open 9am-noon, and 3-5:30pm). While they are friendly enough, you're better off arranging the trip through the Qinghai Mountaineering Association in Xining. If want to tackle the kora (circuit) around Amnye Machen independently, avoid the Xue Shan altogether. CITS will charge an "entrance ticket" of ¥100 ($12) and an "environmental protection fee" of ¥30 ($3.70) per person per day.

Fast Facts

Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs -- None available.

Internet Access -- Hong Niu Wangba (tel. 0975/838-4994) is across the road and just north of the bus station, on the second floor of a music shop. It's open from 10am to 10pm and charges ¥4 (50¢) per hour. Dial-up is 163.

Post Office -- The main post office (weekdays 9:30am-5:30pm, weekends 10:30am-4:30pm) is a 5-minute walk north of the bus station.

Source: Frommer's China, 1st Edition