About 86km (53 miles) from Maqin stands Amnye Machen (Maji Gangri). In 1929, American botanist Joseph Rock incorrectly measured its height at over 9,000m (30,000 ft.), making it (for a while) the world's highest peak. It actually comes in well short, at 6,282m (20,605 ft.), but it was unconquered until 1981 (partly because an earlier Chinese expedition climbed the wrong peak). One of the first Western visitors was the French adventurer, Grenard, who was impressed by "a prodigious and resplendent mass of snow and ice, which strikes any man, however accustomed to mountains, with admiration and astonishment." The protector deity who resides in the mountain, Machen Pomra, is popular with Bonpos (followers of the Bon faith) and is also revered by Buddhists.

Many pilgrims start the trek from Sanchakou (Tselnak Khamdo), where the road meets the pilgrimage circuit. Further down the motor road is Baita (Chuwarna), the traditional starting point for the trek where yaks and horses may be hired from ¥50 ($6) per day. The full circuit is a hefty 132km (82 miles), and there is no way of retracing your steps without incurring the wrath of Machen Pomra. Young folks whiz around in 4 days, carrying all their gear, but it's best to hire a yak or two to carry your gear and take 7 to 10 days. Riding on horseback should take no more than 3 days. The atmosphere of the kora is pious and social. Entire villages or families make the trip, coming from all corners of the Tibetan world for a pilgrimage that is equal to Kailash in significance. The scenery is unsurpassed.

A tent, a sleeping bag, food and fuel, and a spare pair of light shoes or sandals for the numerous stream crossings are essential. A sturdy water filter would also be an idea -- there is a lot of glacial silt in the streams. Most pilgrims abstain from meat during the kora -- a real sacrifice for the meat-loving Tibetans. May and June are the best months, when the snow is still on the peaks, after the deadly cold of winter and before the summer rains. September and October are also fine.

A pilgrim bus to Sanchakou and Baita crawls by at 8am, but a Beijing Jeep (2 1/2 hr.; ¥20/$2.50 per person) is quicker. Warning: The road is rough -- windows are often broken from the inside.

Source: Frommer's China, 1st Edition