The province of Gansu stretches out like a dumbbell in the heart of China. On the western end of the "dumbbell" lies the world-renowned Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, while on the eastern end are the Maijishan Grottos, known as the Treasure of Sculptures. The mysterious Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is located west of the Maijishan Grottos. This mystical land is famous for the Labrang Monastery - one of the major monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism - and the picturesque Sangker Grassland. Unlike the globally famous Mogao Grottos, Gannan is a place of tranquility and has only recently been opened up to the rest of the world.

Labrang Monastery

For tourists visiting Gannan, one of the more exciting experiences available may be a visit to the Labrang Monastery, one of the six ancestral monasteries of the Gelugpa (Yellow) Sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

On a plateau more than 3,000 meters above sea level, standing amidst rolling mountains, one may be surprised to find a complex of halls and temples with golden roofs and red walls rising ahead on the mountainside. At first sight, against the backdrop of an azure sky, the Labrang Monastery presents an image of unmatched majesty.

The monastery, established in 1709 by Jamyang, the first Living Buddha, boasts a storied history of nearly 300 years. Due to reconstruction work during the following years, the structure was increasingly enlarged, and the sutra-studying system for lamas was gradually improved. Now comprised here is a complex of six institutes, 48 halls and rooms for the Living Buddhas and more than 500 dwelling rooms for lamas. All of these buildings are valuable in the spread of Tibetan religious cultures for their superb architecture.

The religious fair held in the Labrang Monastery has become a festive event that attracts thousands of Buddhist followers. Pictured are lamas blowing trumpets to herald the religious fair. by imagechina


The Labrang Monastery houses a collection of more than 65,000 volumes of sutras and books, covering such fields as philosophy, esoteric Buddhism, medicine, poetry, history, religion, biography, mathematics and industrial technology. Known as the largest seminary of Tibetan Buddhism in the world, it consists of six institutes, including the Institute of Esoteric Buddhism, the Higher Institute of Theology, the Lower Institute of Theology, the Institute of Law, the Institute of Astrology, and the Institute of Medicine. The seminary has cultivated a large number of religious personnel and researchers in Tibetan studies.

The seminary features a rigid administration, which is reflected in the sutra debates that are held twice every year. Sutra debate, in the form of an interlocution between two persons, is an important educational element within the principles of the Tibetan religion. One speaks out his arguments, and then the other answers. In the course of sutra debate, both speak loudly and stress their points with claps. The sometimes tense arguments enable students to better understand Buddhist knowledge.

Three Wonders of Tibetan Art

Many know the Kumbum Monastery in Qinghai Province, with its butter sculpture, thangka painting and embossed embroidery - all claimed as the "three wonders of Tibetan art." The Labrang Monastery is also famous for these three wonders.

The portrait of Buddha exhibited at the Buddha-Shining Festival is a huge thangka painting.

Invented by Tibetan people, thangka is a school of painting unique to Tibetan Buddhism. The paintings are in the form of colored silk scrolls. When stretched, the largest work can be as tall as a multi-story building, and the most modest may be less than two inches in height. The renowned uniqueness of this painting is largely due to the materials used.

A young lama paints thangka.by imaginechina

Bright and durable, all pigments applied in thangka painting are derived from natural minerals. The subjects of this realistic style of painting are based on Tibetan religious legends and secular lives. Even nonprofessionals can recognize the painting style from its unique composition and all the works that have been handed down are artistic masterpieces.

Embossed embroidery is another art form unique to Tibetan people, and it is famous for its superb techniques. Artists cut colored silk into various shapes, such as mountains, streams, horses, croplands, human figures and statues of Buddha. The pieces in various shapes are stuffed with wool or cotton and then embroidered onto a breadth of cloth to compose a colorful picture with bulges, which provides a relief effect. In the course of making embossed embroidery, both novel compositions and exquisite techniques are required.

Tibetans are also proud of their butter sculpture. Legend goes that as she married Songtsen Gampo, the king of Tibet at the time, Princess Wencheng brought a statue of Buddha Sakyamuni from Chang'an (today's Xi'an City) to Tibet. Tibetan people offered butter sculptures before the statue to pay their homage to Buddha and the princess. This demonstrated that the butter sculpture was actually a product of Tibetan Buddhism.

Thanks to the persistent efforts of lama craftsmen in the Labrang Monastery over more than 100 years, butter sculpture has developed into a unique art form. Butter cannot endure high temperatures, so all butter sculptures are made and exhibited in winter. It is said that craftsmen used to cool their hands with ice to prevent the butter from being melted by their bodily warmth.

In the Labrang Monastery, lama craftsmen first solidify colored butter in a basin of cool water and then mold them after raw wooden or oaten models. These fantastic butter sculptures are made by lama craftsmen with no real facilities to measure - other than their incredible imagination and experience.

Visitors to the Labrang Monastery will not only have a chance to appreciate its unique architecture and superbly crafted religious artwork, but also they will encounter an amazing contrast of colors. Tibetans are fond of strong colors; black windows, golden glazed tiles, column bases and arches in green, golden and red, and prayer banners in various colors. All these dazzling elements will ensure that visitors are dazzled by the collective display.


The Sangker Grassland

Women at the religious fair, who wear clothes unique to Gannan. by imagechina


The Sangker Grassland is not as boundless as its Inner Mongolia counterpart, and also not as elegant as the Shangri-La Grassland in the Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. The Sangker Grassland stretches out dotted with light yellow or purple wild chrysanthemums. There seems to be surprises everywhere; blue sky, green mountains, Tibetan girls singing, wild horses and much more. All of these create a beautiful picture, which brings a different feeling to city-dwelling tourists. Doga and his family live in the heart of the grassland and visitors will see a superbly decorated niche in the closet as soon as they enter the tent of this family. The host will present fragrant milk tea and speak to visitors about how many cattle they graze. This family receives tourists and rents out tents and horses, through which they gain a considerable source of income.

Traditionally, Tibetan people attach great importance to the harmonious coexistence between man and nature. To protect the Sangker Grassland, Doga said, some areas have been fenced off to stop tourists entering. He hopes this will protect his homeland from damage while enabling tourists to continue to enjoy its enchanting scenery.

According to experts, Doga explained, this is an ideal place to develop wind power plants. Perhaps local herdsmen will soon use this unpolluted energy to cook meals, heat water, and for purpose of animal husbandry. The family expects this will soon happen.
Aware of the importance of environmental protection, in their daily lives local Tibetans pay great attention to the care of their land.

A Tibetan family enjoys their lunch. Most local herdsmen no longer live nomadic lives and have settled down. by Fang Zhou/FOTOE


A grand ritual is held in front of the labrang. by imaginechina

China Pictorial
Wang Yongqiang