473km (293 miles) SW of Shigatse
The Friendship Highway drops 1,400m (4,600 ft.) during the treacherous 30km (19 miles) of dirt road between Nyalam and the border town of Zhangmu. The arid Tibetan plateau gives way to lush greenery and deliciously damp air. Nepalis complain about the cold, but you'll be shedding layers if you've arrived from Lhasa. A tiny collection of wooden houses before the border opened in 1980, Zhangm¨´ is now one of the wealthiest towns in Tibet. Zhangmu stretches for several miles through a series of switchbacks towards the border.
A well-stocked supermarket, Yeye Chaoshi, is on the right-hand side below the Premchi Guesthouse (open 9:30am-1am.)

Frommer's China, 1st Edition